Enjoy a Bowl

Verona, Wisconsin, July 2016. It's the season for Šaltibarščiai.

We like them crispy.

One of our cherished memories of Mr. Irene's Dad was his skill at cooking potato pancakes.  He sometimes made potato pancakes when Mr. Irene, my Mom, and I visited with Mr. Irene's Parents on Sunday afternoons. Potato pancakes therefore spark happy memories.

Lithuanian* potato pancakes ("bulviniai blynai") are unlike latkes: the texture of the potatoes used in the batter must resemble a dense pulp, not shreds of potato. Most people prepare the potatoes for bulviniai blynai by processing them in a potato-grating machine (see also here and here) or, less favorably, in a juicer. A food processor does not achieve the correct texture. Mr. Irene's Dad did not have a potato-grating machine, so he laboriously processed the potatoes by hand on the small holes of a hand grater.

We have a potato-grating machine, and we most often use it to make Kugelis. I've been tweaking a recipe for potato pancakes for over ten years, but I never quite achieved the result we wanted. Last night, we were successful. 

Here is my recipe:

 Potato Pancakes ("Bulviniai Blynai")

3 pounds Idaho or Yukon Gold potatoes (if you don't own a kitchen scale, then get one)

2 egg whites

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

2 egg yolks

2 tablespoons sour cream

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

about 1 teaspoon "Fruit Fresh" or citric acid (optional; prevents potatoes from oxidizing)

1 medium yellow onion

1 cup peanut oil (for frying)

Sour Cream (for serving)

Fill a large bowl with cold water. Add part of the "Fruit Fresh" and allow to dissolve. Peel potatoes and cut into quarters. Drop potato quarters into the cold water; set aside.

In a medium mixing bowl using a hand mixer, beat the egg whites and cream of tartar on medium speed until frothy. Gradually increase the speed to high and mix until the egg whites are stiff. Set aside.

In another mixing bowl, using the same hand mixer, beat the egg yolks, sour cream, baking powder, flour, salt, and pepper until the egg yolks are pale in color and the mixture is thick. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Adjust the oven rack to the center positions. Line two cookies sheets with foil. Lightly spray the foil with vegetable spray. Place a brown grocery bag near the stove top. Cover the bag with a thick layer of paper towels.

Set a fine mesh colander into a large mixing bowl and place the colander/bowl assembly under the spout of a potato-grating machine. Process the potatoes and onions together in the potato-grating machine (people suggest processing the onions with the potato keeps the potatoes from oxidizing). Occasionally sprinkle the grated potatoes with "Fruit Fresh" to prevent oxidizing.

Using a spatula, press the potato pulp against the side of the colander to squeeze out as much liquid as possible (do not drain the liquid yet). Let the liquid stand for about 5 minutes, and save the starch that accumulates at the bottom. Stir the potato pulp into the egg yolk mixture; then add the accumulated potato starch. Fold in the egg whites: incorporate the  whites, but don't deflate them. 

Heat 1/4- to 1/2-inch depth of peanut oil in a large, nonstick, sauté pan over medium-high heat until shimmering but not smoking. Ladle 1/4 cup of the batter into the oil for each blynas. Lightly press down on the batter so the blynai are round and the tops are flat, position the blynai so they are not touching. Make about four blynai at a time. Fry until the bottom is golden brown, about 3-1/2 to 4 minutes. Fry the other side until golden; about 2 to 3 minutes. 

Remove the blynai from the oil and set on the paper-towel lined grocery bag. Allow both sides to exude some of the oil. Transfer the cooked blynai to the prepared cookie sheet(s) and place in the 425 degree oven, uncovered, while you finish frying the rest of the blynai.

Serve immediately with sour cream.

Makes 12 pancakes, serves 3 to 4.

*Yes, Poles, Russians, and Ukrainians follow a similar method for making potato pancakes.

It's Lithuania Week ...

... all week at the University Club in Madison. We enjoyed our meals there last year, and we'll be there tonight for a Madison Vilnius Sister Cities, Inc. dinner.

*     *     *     *     *

Madison, Wisconsin, March 2015. Don't miss the Cepelinai (the star of the show).

Sold Out

Madison-Vilnius Sister Cities this week celebrated Lithuania's Restoration Day. The organization sponsored a banquet at The University Club; guests dined on Šaltibarščiai, Cepelinai, and Honey Torte. The food was authentic and delicious.

The University Club offered a Lithuanian menu this week. Mom and I popped in for lunch today. Misery! The Cepelinai we craved were sold out. So we had the Cabbage Rolls instead. The Cabbage Rolls were good, but Cabbage Rolls are something we easily make at home. Cepelinai are a production, and we rarely cook them. As a result, we didn't have what we had sought. We did start out, however, with the Šaltibarščiai. I thought the soup was excellent; Mom claimed my recipe is better. *Blushes.*

*     *     *     *     *

*     *     *     *     *

*     *     *     *     *

*     *     *     *     *

*     *     *     *     *

(I asked the server to show me the machine the cook had used to grate the potatoes.)

Let's make a Kugelis.

Mr. Irene and I decided to make a traditional Lithuanian dish, Kugelis, last night. It wasn't a special occasion; we just had a taste for it, and our potatoes were on the "old" side. (Lithuanian cooks insist old potatoes makes a better Kugelis because old potatoes have less liquid.)

We don't make Kugelis very often because it's something of a—to use an Italian phrase—"bomba calorica." A dish that serves six to eight people features five pounds of potatoes, two sticks of butter, one cup of cream, 12 ounces of bacon, five eggs, and an onion. And one eats Kugelis with a generous side of sour cream.
 

 Verona, Wisconsin, March 2014. Mr. Irene peeled and quartered the potatoes. We kept the potatoes in ice water until I was ready to grate them. 

*     *     *     *     *

Verona, Wisconsin, March 2014. The potatoes must be grated using a fine blade; the correct texture is a pulp, not shreds. We use a Lithuanian potato-grating machine. 

*     *     *     *     * 

Verona, Wisconsin, March 2014. Quick grating keeps the potatoes from oxidizing. Lithuanians frown upon a "grey" Kugelis.

*     *     *     *     *

  
Verona, Wisconsin, March 2014. The Kugelis is ready about three hours after we started making it.

*     *     *     *     *

  
Verona, Wisconsin, March 2014. Rex says, "Hey! Bacon!!" 

Is today special?

Maybe. It's World Zep Day.

Here's how the United States Embassy in Vilnius commemorated the occasion.

ADDED: Hiroshima's Little Lithuania recognizes the day, too.

"The potatoes are wrung dry."

The key to good Cepelinai is the potato processing.

There's more to it than "potatoes, pork and sour cream."

Lithuanian cuisine.
 
(Here's our recipe for Šaltibarščiai. And here's a bowl prepared by an American chef.)

Lithuanian Food (Again)

RimaRama! writes about dining in Lithuania.

A Tour of Vilnius

"Vilnius is the modern European city with a remarkable old town and friendly people."

Friendly people. Just remember not to bare your teeth.

Annual Banquet

Mr. Irene and I last night attended the banquet hosted by Madison-Vilnius Sister Cities, Inc. The centerpiece of the evening was a presentation by the Grandson of Aleksandras Stulginskis, the second President of the Republic of Lithuania.

 

Madison, Wisconsin, April 2013. The greeters warmly welcomed us.

*     *     *     *     *

Madison, Wisconsin, April 2013. The venue decorated the tables with the tricolors of the flag.

*     *     *     *     *

Madison, Wisconsin, April 2013. The chef delighted guests with a customized, Lithuanian meal. We started out with Šaltibarščiai. Note the appropriate side plate of dill-coated, boiled potatoes.

*     *     *     *     *

Madison, Wisconsin, April 2013. We ended the meal with a chocolate variation on Napoleonas. One criticism: the dollop of orange marmalade was a downer because I expected apricot jam.

(Note: The Šaltibarščiai were so good, I decided to share a spoonful with the tablecloth.)

*     *     *     *     *

Madison, Wisconsin, April 2013. No Lithuanian event is complete without a loterija.

UPDATE: Link to professional photos taken by Paulius Musteikis.

Grating potatoes.

Now that the holidays are over, do you yearn for a nice meal built around the humble potato? Do you have a taste for Kugelis? Perhaps you'd rather have Cepelinai or maybe a lot of Cepelinai?

An electric potato grating machine will make the preparation easier. Here's a slick model (see the recipe—for a double batch of—Kugelis there, too). This is the appliance that we use.

Too few piggies? Blame Poland.

Lithuanian pork producers "cannot cope with domestic demand."

Let them eat potatoes, you say? We always eat potato dishes sprinkled with "spirgučiai"—bacon bits, swimming in their fat.

Šaltibarščiai

"Šaltibarščiai" is the Lithuanian word for "Cold Beet Soup." We never call it "Borscht." A bowl of Šaltibarščiai is a real summer treat. Here's our family recipe:

3 cups buttermilk (I use 2 cups buttermilk and 1 cup Tzatziki. Some people use kefir.)

8 ounces (1 cup) sour cream, stirred

3/4 teaspoon Lawry's Seasoning Salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper (McCormick "Grill Mates" Montreal Seasoning)

1/2 teaspoon prepared horseradish

2 teaspoons cider vinegar

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

One pound cooked beets, peeled or one 16 ounce can whole, small beets, drained (reserve liquid)*

8 ounces cucumber, preferably seedless, peeled

4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled

1/2 cup freshly scallions, white and green parts (3 to 4 scallions)

1/4 cup fresh dill weed, minced (measures 1/2 cup, loosely packed, before mincing)

1/2 to 3/4 cup reserved beet liquid

additional fresh dill weed, minced

hot boiled potatoes

In a large (3- to 4-quart) serving bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, Tzatziki (if using), sour cream, salt and pepper, horseradish, cider vinegar, lemon juice, and sugar. Blend well to combine.

In the workbowl of a food processor, with the shredding disk in place, shred the drained beets and peeled cucumber. Transfer to the serving bowl.

Insert the metal blade into the workbowl of the food processor. Add the hard-boiled eggs, scallions, and dill weed. Process, using on/off turns, until the ingredients are coarsely chopped. Add to the serving bowl with the beets and cucumbers.

If mixture seems thick, add some of the reserved beet liquid. (How "thick" the soup should be is a personal preference. I come from the school of thick soup, so I rarely add more than 1/2 cup.) Chill at least 4 hours before serving.

To serve, garnish soup with fresh dill sprigs. Serve with a boiled potato on the side, topped with the fresh dill.

Makes 10 cups.

*It's summer, and it's hot. Why heat up the kitchen by boiling or roasting fresh beets? Canned beets work perfectly in this recipe.

UPDATE: My Toronto Cousin sends this image of a bowl of pink Šaltibarščiai, served with a side of boiled potatoes, in a Lithuanian café: